We went to see the largest fish market in the world. Hundreds (thousands?) of small places selling different types fish and seafood.
Next we went to another Buddhist temple. Outside the temple there were hundreds of small shops selling anything from chopsticks to donuts. Lunch at another Japanese restaurant and back to Osaka on the bullet train.

We checked back at Nikko again. Here is the shocking part. The Nikko which looked luxurious after our stay in Kamchatka looked positively cheesy now after our stay at Conrad! Within 48 hours what appeared as a luxury hotel transformed itself into a cheap motel. We all know everything is relative, but i have not experienced anything quite as dramatic as this. I wondered what Avacha would have looked like if had gone back immediately after Conrad.

We took the bullet train (probably made by Bombardier) from Osaka to Tokyo. Bowing is so deep rooted in Japanese culture that it is institutionalized. Whenever a conductor would enter or exit the car, he would bow (to no one in particular).

The first stop was for lunch. Didn't eat.

The second stop was a Shinto shrine. 90% of Japanese are Buddhists and 75% are Shintoists. So at least 65% of all Japanese are both Buddhists and Shintoists. The Shinto religion has 8 million gods. The Buddhist religion has none. Go figure.

We checked in at Conrad, the high end brand of Hilton. The rooms (which start at US$700) were beautiful. A zen-like look of clean lines and sparse looking space. But looks are deceptive. It was ultra-luxurious with toy bears on bed and rubber ducks in the bath tub. On the corridor there was a nice visual illusion. Whichever way one looked there seemed to be a translucent barrier a few yards away. But as one walked close to the barrier, the barrier seemed to recede until it completely disappeared. But it was so subtle (and not obvious because of the dim corridor lighting) that none of the other guests had even noticed it. I wondered if it was my imagination and went back to check. No it was not my imagination. I wonder how they created this illusion.

Had dinner at a supposedly famous restaurant at Ginza district. Ginza is of course the Times Square and Rodeo Drive rolled into one. Ginza is also reputed to be the most expensive real estate in the world. After dinner we walked back through Ginza. Great experience.

What is striking about Japan is its cleanliness. Whether it is the winding alley ways of Kyoto or the glittering streets of Ginza, they are clean, no litter anywhere. Interestingly enough, there are no trashcans in sight. Yet the Japanese simply do not litter the streets.

And one more thing. The trains in Japan run on time. Not just on time, but exactly on time. As our Guide said, if a train is supposed to arrive at 9.26, it will arrive at 9.26 and not at 9.25 or 9.27.

We went on a brief tour of Osaka. The highlight was a visit to Osaka Castle. The Castle houses a Shinto shrine. It was built many years ago but a serious fire destroyed it. Again it was consumed by fire. In 1931 the citizens of Osaka donated funds to restore it to its former state.

Then we travelled to Kyoto (an hour by road) the former Imperial Capital, at the time of Shoguns. We visited one of the oldest Buddhist temples in the country. There I learnt that there were four kind of Buddhas: the Buddha who became enlightened and attained Nirvana, the Bodhisattvas who became enlightened but did not accept Nirvana out of their compassion for other beings, the Buddhas who serve the Bodhisattvas and Buddhas who do not fit into any of the above categories.

We had dinner at a famous Japanese artist's home. The highlight of the day was we had a couple of (authentic) geishas to entertain us. When we went to Tokyo the following day the guide there told us that it is unusual even for a Japanese person to actually meet with a geisha. They entire geisha culture seemed to be steeped some kind of mystery.