Permanant Link For Entry #26

Cape Town - Home of history’s most famous political prisoner. October 23-26

Cape Town is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Tucked into the arms of a broad bay, surrounded by wild, white sandy beaches and set against the canvass of the Table Mountain, it is affectionately known as the “Mother City”. This was the home of the nomadic Khoi people for at least 30,000 years. It is the port of the first European settlers.

As we were transported from the airport to the hotel, we saw several vestiges of the apartheid era; shanty towns or “townships”, a hangover from the notorious Group Areas Act which reserved the prime areas of the city for “whites only”. The apartheid regime is now disbanded but weiths still heavily on people’s minds. Our first tour guide who was white told us how he would transform South Africa if he became the president. He really had a detailed blue print. Our second tour guide (who was “coloured” and with us for three days in Cape Town) said that she was so happy that her children could have opportunities (especially for good education) that were denied to her.

On arrival, we were taken to Table Mountain, with spectacular views of the city and False Bay. The following day was overcast and we went on a sightseeing trip along the mountain. We saw baboons, ostriches and other assorted animals along the way. The sights were spectacular. We could see the Cape of Good Hope where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet. In the evening we had a talk from a University Professor about the status of South Africa. However, the star attraction was Joseph, a cheetah which was brought in by an organization that is interested in saving theanimal from extinction. We were allowed to pet Joseph the cheetah, who seemed to be enjoying thoroughly all the attention.

The next day Deborah and Chuck visited Robben Island where Nelson Mandela spent 16 years of some 27 years of incarceration. Robben Island is about 45 minutes away by boat from Cape Town. This is something Chuck was looking forward to visiting. We were shown the prison and the cell where Mandela (Madiba as he is commonly known here), prisoner number 4664) was kept. It’s a tiny cell (cell number 5). The guides who accompanied us were former Robben Island political prisoners themselves, so their accounts were first hand. As one of our fellow travelers Morgan McCague remarked “we were witnessing a piece of history; twenty years from now, the guides may well be those who had no direct experience of the prison or even of the apartheid regime.”

It was interesting to see how prisoners’ privileges depended on the shade of the colour of their skin. For example, “coloured” prisoners would get more food than black prisoners.

Chuck has always been a great admirer of Madiba for his extraordinary lack of bitterness against those who took away 27 years of his life and his lack of vindictiveness against those who made his life miserable. Such greatness is so rare in human history. In contrast to most African nations, the transfer of power in South Africa did not result in widespread bloodshed and Madiba, Chuck believes, was mostly responsible for it. He was glad he could visit Robben Island which now houses no prisoners but only some 150 residents and penguins. You can always see whales on your way to Robben Island.

In the evening we had an excellent dinner in a nearby restaurant with exuberant African singers.

Time to wind down our trip. We are now on a plane to Rio de Jeneiro. A long flight, 10 hours on air, with a fuel stop at the Ascension Island.

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